DigitalCamFan
60d movie recording stopped automatically
The T3i movie recording stopped automatically the first time I tried to use it. Did you have the same problem with your Canon 60d – 60d movie recording stopped automatically?
You’re so excited to try out the movie option on your new camera, but it records for about 4 seconds and stops. You read through your manual trying to figure out what setting is turned off or on. Then you turn to Google luckily it’s a simple solution and you don’t have to return the camera!
You need a new SDHC Card. I bought the PNY 16GB Flash Memory Card DSHC Class 10. The problem was my old SD 
card was a class 4 just not enough umph to handle the HD movie. I see a lot of people have the 32GB card class 10 SDHC card! I wouldn’t buy less than the 16GB since the HD video files are pretty huge!
I do believe it has to be a Class 6 or better to run HD videos. Let me know if I am wrong on that!
How to Meter in Manual
Exposure is determined by two things
- The amount of light in the scene.
- The speed of your sensor ISO – (International Standard Organization)
Exposure is controlled by two things:
- Shutter Speed
- Aperture (f-stop)
We have a triangle working together to determine what the correct exposure is. If you’re in manual mode and you change any of these three elements your exposure reflects your changes.
Look through your viewfinder to see your light meter. It also is displayed on you LCD view on the back of the camera:
The camera will think it is exposed correctly when your light meter reads zero.
Canon Metering Mode 60D
Where to find the Canon Metering Mode on the Canon 60D. There are actually two places you will find the metering mode. The first place to find the metering mode is on the top LCD panel.
Simply bush the button directly above the image of the meter. Once you push that button the meter mode is the only image that will show on your LCD panel. Simply turn your quick control dial on the back of the camera or the main dial on the top of the camera to move between your four choices. Evaluative metering, partial metering, spot metering and center-weighted average metering.
The second way to change the metering mode on your Canon 60d on the back of your camera.
On the back of your 60d is button with a Q in a square. This stands for Quick Control Mode. Once you push that button the back LCD will show all your options. The arrow pad on the quick control dial on the back of your camera will move you through the list. Turn the dial to access different settings (or use the main dial on top of your camera)
Once you decide which one you want push set (in the middle of the dial)
Evaluative Metering – Is the fool proof setting, your camera decides what is best. Takes in the entire scene automatically.
Partial Metering – Partial Metering covers approximetely 6.5% of the viewfinder area.
Spot Metering – Spot Metering covers approximately 2.8% of the viewfinder area.
Center-Weighted Average Metering – Metering is weighted at the center and then averaged for the entire scene.
Tomorrow I will go a little more in depth about what I have learned so far about metering with Canon Metering Modes
Bought the T3i ended up with the 60D
The hunt for a new camera started months ago when my husband said he needed HD video for a project he’s working on. But instead of going out and buying any ol’d HD video camcorder he suggested I look at upgrading my Canon XSi that way we both get something amazing. Um yes!!!
I started to think about what I wanted in a new camera… the first thought is higher ISO! Shooting indoor shots or even out door shots for that matter I always need more light. Since I wasn’t buying a new lens my thoughts turned to higher ISO.
My search started with Canon T2i, T3i, 50D and the 60D. I didn’t spend any time researching the 7D simply because of the price.
The Canon 50D was quickly ruled out since it didn’t feature HD video. The choice between the T3i and the T2i wasn’t to tough either. Here are the stats I found important between the two:
Canon T3i priced at $659.00 (just the body)
- 18MG CMOS (APS-C) Sensor; DIGIC 4 Image Processor
- ISO 100-6400 (Expandable to 12800)
- 1920 x 1080 HD
- FPS 3.7
- Articulating monitor – If you are shooting at different angles
- Built in Wireless Flash Transmitter
Canon T2i priced at $579.00 (just the body)
- 18MG CMOS (APS-C) Sensor; DIGIC 4 Image Processor
- ISO 100-6400 (Expandable to 12800
- 1920 x 1080 HD
- FPS 3.7
To me the articulating monitor and the built in flash were enough for me to want the T3i. There have been plenty of times when I focus on something and then slowly lift the camera above my head hoping the subject was still in the frame. Plus I own the 580EX II Speedlite flash so if I wanted to make it a slave I don’t have to buy a transmitter.
Now the Canon T3i vs. 60D
These two were a little harder to decide between. Both are amazing cameras in my opinion.
Canon T3i priced at $659.00 (just the body)
- 18MG CMOS (APS-C) Sensor; DIGIC 4 Image Processor
- ISO 100-6400 (Expandable to 12800)
- 1920 x 1080 HD
- Articulating monitor – If you are shooting at different angles
- Built in Wireless Flash Transmitter
- FPS 3.7
- Shutter Speed 4000
- Only the center AF point is a cross type
Canon 60D priced at $869.00 (just the body)
- 18MG CMOS (APS-C) Sensor; DIGIC 4 Image Processor
- ISO 100-6400 (Expandable to 12800)
- 1920 x 1080 HD
- Articulating monitor – If you are shooting at different angles
- Built in Wireless Flash Transmitter
- FPS 5.3
- Shutter Speed 8000
- All 9AF points are cross Type
The frames per second, shutter speed and the fact that all 9 points were cross types is what stood out to me on the 60D. The 60D had a few more features that were fun like the in camera photo editing, an electronic level, slightly longer battery life. Still both were in the running and I kept going back and forth between the two. As for HD video there was no hard choice there as far as I can tell they are equal in the video department. Then one day on Amazon the T3i was on sale for $659.00 original list price is $799.00 so I bought it!
When the camera arrived in the mail I played with it that night and my husband said “You don’t have the wow factor” I did love the camera and it felt exactly like my other camera. It had everything I wanted, but he was right, and if you don’t have the wow factor than you probably bought the wrong one for you. I had held both cameras in the past and I loved the way the 60D felt in my hands. I liked the fact that when I turned it on I wasn’t 100% sure what to do.
Once I purchase something I try not to look back at the price so in my warped view the 60D now only cost $200 which seemed like a great deal. So… I bought the 60D and sold the T3i. I was going to just return the T3i to Amazon, but I still felt the price was a super deal for the Canon T3i. I thought I would ask a friend of mine who loves cameras as much as I do. She took the camera for a few days to think about it and showed up on my doorstep on day two with a check, she loved it! And why wouldn’t she, right!
In my opinion both are amazing cameras very similar in many ways. But I guess the deciding factor for me was the 60D felt right. Which is kinda of a strange reason, but it felt like it was the camera for me. Plus when I take a picture of that water fall in the bright sunlight I can crank up my shutter speed!
Now I am the proud owner of the Canon 60D, I am almost done reading the manual which I would recommend to everyone. There is plenty of information in that little book I forgot about. Always good to go back and review!
If you’re having a hard time deciding between the T3i vs. 60D feel free to email me. It is a hard choice….
Canon XSi – 2 .JPGS instead of 1 RAW and 1 JPG
Ran across a strange problem this evening… First of all I want to thank some twitter folks for helping me out!
@_dkess_
@MichaelASander
@KW_Daddio
@ReneeFineArt
@WoodbridgeBB
@TheBearInMe
I asked the question searched the forums, but was having a hard time finding my answer. Perhaps it was because i wasn’t googling the right question I don’t know. But I finally found the answer at Canon Digital Photography Forums.
Here is what my problem was:
- I have a Canon Rebel XSi
- I set the camera to capture RAW + LG JPG
- To download the pictures onto my computer I was using an interface cable that connected my camera straight to my computer which is running Windows XP.
- The problem – there were no RAW images (.CR2) instead I had 2 images in .JPG in my folder
IMG_0019(165).jpg
IMG_0019.jpg
Here is the solution:
- Buy a card reader – Doesn’t really make sense to me on the forum they said it might be because I am running windows XP, but still should work both ways. I could still save RAW by itself with the interface cable. just not RAW + JPG.
Targus Digital TGR-SD20 USB 2.0 Card Reader
A card reader has been on my list of things to buy for awhile. Was getting tired of setting the camera on the desk worried I was going to knock it off. For some reason I was thinking a card reader would be a lot more expensive, but they not expensive at all! Inf act they are very affordable and convenient!
Reassigning your AF Button – I think it’s Amazing!
I found this tip absolutely amazing! Perhaps I took to it so quickly because I am still a novice camera holder I still have to think for a second when I want to change the ISO or something on the camera. So obviously my camera is not second nature in my hands… yet. When I made the change it felt natural to me not once did I try to Auto Focus on the front of the camera after the switch. So for me I love it, plus I feel like my pictures are more in focus because of it!
When you take a picture your shutter button represents the focus, light meter and takes the picture. That is a lot for one button! I have two kids so someone is always running in front of the camera as chaos swirls around me. I am constantly pushing the button halfway down trying to re-focus. Most of the time I end up with a blurry subject or the wrong subject in the focus.
Back-Button Auto Focus
If the distance between you and your subject stays the same. Go ahead and focus on your subject take your thumb off the button. It doesn’t matter if anyone walks in front of you your subject will remain in focus.
Once you focus on your subject you can re-compose your shot – take as many pictures as you like and your subject still stays in focus.
For more questions check out Canons article on Back-Button Auto Focus Explained. Canon also has a chart explaining how to activate this setting on different Canon EOS models.
How to Activate back-button AF (Canon Rebel XSi)
Turn your camera dial to Creative Zone Exposure Mode (P, Av, Tv or M)
Go to Custom Function in the menu – you want to change C. Fn 10
to number 3:AE/AF, no AE lock
Give it try… If you don’t like it you can always switch back!
Understanding DOF (Depth of Field)
I currently have one example on shallow DOF. I am currently working on getting some more tests done with different focal length. This example is only about 1 foot away from my subject – Shallow DOF
What affects depth of field?
- Aperture (F-Stop)
- Focal Length
- Distance from the subject
Aperture (F-Stop)
Smaller aperture (higher number) will give us more depth of field
Larger aperture (lower number) will give us less depth of field
You will hear the term larger aperture or smaller aperture a lot. A larger aperture is going to let more light in (like an f/1.4) and smaller aperture is going to be a smaller hole and will let less light in (like an f/32)
- F/1 – less depth of field
- F/32 – more depth of field
Focal Length
Distance between the sensor and the optical center of the lens.
16mm shorter distance means greater depth of field
Zoom – longer distance means lesser depth of field
Distance from the subject
As distance between the sensor and the subject changes so does the depth of field. If we are close to our subject we will get less depth of field. If we are further away we will get more depth of field. When you are very close to your subject the amount of depth of field will be almost nothing.
Further from subject – more depth of field (more of frame in focus)
Times you want more DOF (Depth of field)
- Architecture
- Landscape
- Macro (sometimes)
Closer to subject – less depth of field (smaller amount in focus)
Times you want less DOF (Depth of field)
- Portrait
- Wildlife
- Macro (sometimes)
Understanding how Shutter Speed and F-Stop work together
Shutter speed and f-stops are directly related to each other since both affect the amount of light that reaches the sensor. Shutter speed does so by the amount of time you leave the shutter open. Aperture does so through the size of the lens opening. To make one-stop change with either your shutter speed or your f-stop you have to make a change in the opposite direction with the other. So if you Open Up one stop (Let more light in) with your shutter you must Stop Down one stop (Let less light in) with your aperture.
Now this example is cool:
All these exposure settings will the the same amount of light in as f/16 @ 1/125
- f/11 @ 1/250
- f/8 @ 1/500
- f/5.6 @ 1/1000
- f4 @ 1/4000
- f/2 @ 1/8000
You work with these two settings – shutter speed and f-stop to determine how much light reaches your sensor. But they don’t only alter your light the faster shutter speed has the ability to freeze motion.
Understanding Exposure
Understanding F-Stop
Understanding Shutter Speed
Understanding Shutter Speed
Shutter Speed measures the length of time that your shutter stays open to allow light to expose the sensor. Shutter speeds are measurements of time that can range from 30 full seconds to 1/8,000 of a second. Of course that depends on which camera you have.
Full shutter speed increments are: 30, 15, 8, 4, 2, 1
Fractions of seconds are: 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/4000, 1/8000
Each Full Shutter speed is one stop apart from the one that precedes it and the one that follows it. Therefore each full shutter speed is one-half as much light as the one that precedes it and twice as much light as the one that follows it.
So if you have your shutter speed set at 1/30 of a second – that lets in twice as much light as 1/60
if you set your shutter speed at 1/30 of a second – that lets in one-half as much light as 1/15.
Today’s camera you can have 1/2 or 1/3 stop shutter speed increments.
Three Important Points about Shutter Speed:
- To freeze motion you want to use a faster shutter speed, for example to stop someone running you would want to use at least 1/500. Depending on how fast they are running you can stop motion at 1/125 – 1/250 slower when panning for motion blur. (Thanks @cyberjim for your tips on motion speed!)
- To show motion you would use a much slower shutter speed, for example blurring the motion of running water you might want to choose around 1 second.
- If you are holding the camera while taking a picture typically you don’t want to go under 1/60 second unless you have a tri-pod. You want to shoot fast enough to prevent camera shake to blur your photo. Shoot at a speed that is faster then your focal length. For instance a s00mm lens don’t shoot hand held less then 1/250 of a second of faster.
Understanding Exposure
Understanding F-Stop
Putting it together Shutter Speed and F-Stop
Understanding F-Stop
let’s move on to the tricky F-Stop what does it really mean…
Here is a list of F-stops every one is 1 stop apart from the other. If you remember your first 2 f/stops you will know the rest since every other one doubles itself. f/1 – f/2 — f/1.4 – f/2.8
- f/1, f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22, f/32
You might remember this from the Understanding Exposure post I wrote:
A stop is defined as double or half the amount of light.
So if you were at f/5.6 and you wanted to let in twice as much light, you would open up one stop to f/4
- f/5.6 – f/4 – 1 stop – you doubled the amount of light (Opening Up)
- f/5.6 – f/2.8 – 2 tops – you now have 4 x’s the amount of light. (Opening Up)
So if you go the other way
- f/4 – f/5.6 – 1 stop – you are letting in one-half as much light. (Stopping Down)
- f/2.8 – f/5.6 – 2 stops – you are letting in one-fourth as much light. (Stopping Down)
Opening up means letting in more light
Stopping Down means letting in less light
Understanding Exposure
Understanding Shutter Speed
Understanding how F-Stop and Shutter Speed work together
Understanding Depth of Field – Coming Soon
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