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Archive for March, 2010
Need some extra Distance? – Canon EF 1.4x II Extender
The Canon EF 1.4x II Extender – seems like a great idea. Who wouldn’t want to get just a bit closer to your subject without having to step closer. A couple things I noticed when taking a look -
- With this extender attached, the f/ stop decreases by 1 stop.
- Auto focusing is possible combined with a lens that has an f/4 or faster aperture.
Amazon has it listed for $304.95 + 9.50 shipping. It is a few dollars less at BHPhoto $309.00 + Free Shipping
Official Product Description:
Canon is an industry leader in professional and consumer imaging equipment and information systems. Canon’s extensive product line enables businesses and consumers worldwide to capture, store and distribute visual information. Cannon provides a wide range of accessories that are fully tested and 100% compliant with the corresponding equipment. All accessories are noted for their high reliability and superior quality.The Company offers its new EF 1.4x II extender that is designed for use with all Canon EOS System cameras and most high-end EF telephoto and super-telephoto lenses including all fixed-focal length L-series lenses from 135mm to 1200mm as well as several L-series EF telephoto zoom lenses. Its new internal anti-reflection construction improves contrast even when shooting in heavy backlit conditions. The EF 1.4x II extender will give photographers the additional telephoto capabilities they need without sacrificing image quality. In addition, the compact design of the extender will allow photographers to travel with a lighter, more compact gadget bag.
Technical Details:
- 1.4x telephoto extender for multiplying focal length of Canon 135mm or longer lenses
- Fits all 135mm or longer fixed focal length lenses and some 70-200mm telephoto lenses
- Preserves autofocus on any EOS camera when combined with f/4 or faster lens
- Weather-resistant construction and improved anti-reflective surfaces in the barrel
- Measures 2.9 inches in diameter and 1.1 inches long; weighs 7.8 ounces
Reassigning your AF Button – I think it’s Amazing!
I found this tip absolutely amazing! Perhaps I took to it so quickly because I am still a novice camera holder I still have to think for a second when I want to change the ISO or something on the camera. So obviously my camera is not second nature in my hands… yet. When I made the change it felt natural to me not once did I try to Auto Focus on the front of the camera after the switch. So for me I love it, plus I feel like my pictures are more in focus because of it!
When you take a picture your shutter button represents the focus, light meter and takes the picture. That is a lot for one button! I have two kids so someone is always running in front of the camera as chaos swirls around me. I am constantly pushing the button halfway down trying to re-focus. Most of the time I end up with a blurry subject or the wrong subject in the focus.
Back-Button Auto Focus
If the distance between you and your subject stays the same. Go ahead and focus on your subject take your thumb off the button. It doesn’t matter if anyone walks in front of you your subject will remain in focus.
Once you focus on your subject you can re-compose your shot – take as many pictures as you like and your subject still stays in focus.
For more questions check out Canons article on Back-Button Auto Focus Explained. Canon also has a chart explaining how to activate this setting on different Canon EOS models.
How to Activate back-button AF (Canon Rebel XSi)
Turn your camera dial to Creative Zone Exposure Mode (P, Av, Tv or M)
Go to Custom Function in the menu – you want to change C. Fn 10
to number 3:AE/AF, no AE lock
Give it try… If you don’t like it you can always switch back!
Understanding DOF (Depth of Field)
I currently have one example on shallow DOF. I am currently working on getting some more tests done with different focal length. This example is only about 1 foot away from my subject – Shallow DOF
What affects depth of field?
- Aperture (F-Stop)
- Focal Length
- Distance from the subject
Aperture (F-Stop)
Smaller aperture (higher number) will give us more depth of field
Larger aperture (lower number) will give us less depth of field
You will hear the term larger aperture or smaller aperture a lot. A larger aperture is going to let more light in (like an f/1.4) and smaller aperture is going to be a smaller hole and will let less light in (like an f/32)
- F/1 – less depth of field
- F/32 – more depth of field
Focal Length
Distance between the sensor and the optical center of the lens.
16mm shorter distance means greater depth of field
Zoom – longer distance means lesser depth of field
Distance from the subject
As distance between the sensor and the subject changes so does the depth of field. If we are close to our subject we will get less depth of field. If we are further away we will get more depth of field. When you are very close to your subject the amount of depth of field will be almost nothing.
Further from subject – more depth of field (more of frame in focus)
Times you want more DOF (Depth of field)
- Architecture
- Landscape
- Macro (sometimes)
Closer to subject – less depth of field (smaller amount in focus)
Times you want less DOF (Depth of field)
- Portrait
- Wildlife
- Macro (sometimes)
Manfrotto 496RC2 Compact Head
Manfrotto 496RC2 Compact Ball Head
There was nothing wrong with the head on my tripod, but it was so old it didn’t have the same size screw therefore wouldn’t work for me. So I invested in a head as well. Boy am I glad I did! This one has a plate that screws right into the bottom of your camera. So anytime you want to use your camera you just snap it into place… pretty nifty! The compact ball head is awesome you can adjust it to turn any direction any position. Some things just work out I was glad I didn’t place my old head on my brand new Manfrotto legs!
My actual purchase was the 486RC2, but it has been replaced with the 496RC2. I can’t imagine they are that different, but I am sure the newer one must be better in some way. If you like you can check out my review on the Manfrotto tripod legs 190Xb that I also purchased.
Amazon list price $85.00 plus Free Shipping. And there is always BHPhoto has it listed for $84.95.
The Official Product Description:
The Bogen-Manfrotto 486RC2 Compact Ball Head is the same as the 486 but equipped with a 3157N quick-release camera plate. The 486RC2 is a direct replacement of the 3413QR and 3055S ProBall and Heavy-Duty Double Action Ball Heads. A strong die-cast construction, precision machined aluminum housing, and an extremely hard phenolic resin ball provides smooth movements across all tilt positions. The 486RC2 features a single ratchet locking knob for 360-degree pan and a double groove for +90 to -90-degree tilt movements. Camera plate has a 1/4-20-inch male thread, and head to tripod attachment is 3/8-inch female. Optional Plates: 200PL-38, 200PLARCH-14, 200PLARCH-38.
Time for a new Tripod – Went with Manfrotto 190XB!
Manfrotto 190XB Tripod
The clamps to my old tripod were all held together with rubber bands. I had six rubber band holding it together! It did work when everything was set up just right, but if one rubber band slipped the leg would slowly start to slide back down. Last Saturday my photography class went on a field trip and we were suppose to bring our tripods!!! I figured it was time to invest in a new one. Luckily the class prior to the field trip was on purchasing a tripod!
We talked about so many different tripods. Gitzo made of carbon fiber very light which equals very expensive. Kirk tripod and the Manfrotto. In the end I went with the Manfrotto legs Model#190XB as well as the Manfrotto Head Model #486RC2. (Which has been replaced with Manfrotto Head Model #496RC2) I couldn’t be happier with my purchase! You can check out my review of the Manfrotto Head as well.
It is not very heavy, of course it’s not as light as the carbon fiber one! The weight is nothing to complain about. the size is great as well, when I took off the head I was able to put the tripod and the head separately in my backpack and zip it up so the legs weren’t dangling out the top. When you walk around holding the tripod it feels right it fits perfectly in your hand. All the parts move with ease, and you can set it up in virtually any position. The pole in the middle can slide out so you can lay your legs flat and do close up macro photos. And the price isn’t bad at all! The Tripod legs at Amazon are selling for $129.90 + Free Shipping Of course there is always B&HPhoto is selling it for $139.95 + Free Shipping. I would recommend this set up to anyone.
The Official Product Description:
The Manfrotto 190XB three-section tripod is stable, flexible, and easy to use, making it a great choice for amateur and professional photographers alike. The tripod is distinguished by its redesigned aluminum frame, which is lighter than previous incarnations and slightly more compact. As a result, it’s more convenient to bring this tripod along on shoots without weighing yourself down. Plus, the ergonomics of the leg-angle release mechanism and the quick-action leg locks have also been greatly improved, making it a breeze to open, position, and close the tripod in just a few seconds. The tension of the locking mechanism is even user-adjustable, so you can find the right tension for your comfort level. And should you need to balance the tripod on an uneven surface, you can set each of the legs to a different spread angle over the tripod’s center of gravity–a must for nature shots on outdoor terrain.Specifications
- Color: Black
- Includes tripod head: No
- Closed length: 21.06 inches
- Minimum height: 3.15 inches
- Maximum height: 57.48 inches
- Maximum height with center column down: 46.65 inches
- Load capacity: 11 pounds
- Material: Aluminum
- Leg cross section: Round
- Column cross section: 3-faceted
- Leg sections: 3
- Bubble spirit level: No
- Leg angles: 25, 46, 66, and 88 degrees
- Center column: Rapid
- Column tube diameter: 25mm
- Attachment: 3/8-inch screw
- Leg tube diameter: 25, 20, and 16 mm
- Suggested dolly: 127, 127VS
- Weight: 3.97 pounds
- Warranty: 2 years
Understanding how Shutter Speed and F-Stop work together
Shutter speed and f-stops are directly related to each other since both affect the amount of light that reaches the sensor. Shutter speed does so by the amount of time you leave the shutter open. Aperture does so through the size of the lens opening. To make one-stop change with either your shutter speed or your f-stop you have to make a change in the opposite direction with the other. So if you Open Up one stop (Let more light in) with your shutter you must Stop Down one stop (Let less light in) with your aperture.
Now this example is cool:
All these exposure settings will the the same amount of light in as f/16 @ 1/125
- f/11 @ 1/250
- f/8 @ 1/500
- f/5.6 @ 1/1000
- f4 @ 1/4000
- f/2 @ 1/8000
You work with these two settings – shutter speed and f-stop to determine how much light reaches your sensor. But they don’t only alter your light the faster shutter speed has the ability to freeze motion.
Understanding Exposure
Understanding F-Stop
Understanding Shutter Speed
Understanding Shutter Speed
Shutter Speed measures the length of time that your shutter stays open to allow light to expose the sensor. Shutter speeds are measurements of time that can range from 30 full seconds to 1/8,000 of a second. Of course that depends on which camera you have.
Full shutter speed increments are: 30, 15, 8, 4, 2, 1
Fractions of seconds are: 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/4000, 1/8000
Each Full Shutter speed is one stop apart from the one that precedes it and the one that follows it. Therefore each full shutter speed is one-half as much light as the one that precedes it and twice as much light as the one that follows it.
So if you have your shutter speed set at 1/30 of a second – that lets in twice as much light as 1/60
if you set your shutter speed at 1/30 of a second – that lets in one-half as much light as 1/15.
Today’s camera you can have 1/2 or 1/3 stop shutter speed increments.
Three Important Points about Shutter Speed:
- To freeze motion you want to use a faster shutter speed, for example to stop someone running you would want to use at least 1/500. Depending on how fast they are running you can stop motion at 1/125 – 1/250 slower when panning for motion blur. (Thanks @cyberjim for your tips on motion speed!)
- To show motion you would use a much slower shutter speed, for example blurring the motion of running water you might want to choose around 1 second.
- If you are holding the camera while taking a picture typically you don’t want to go under 1/60 second unless you have a tri-pod. You want to shoot fast enough to prevent camera shake to blur your photo. Shoot at a speed that is faster then your focal length. For instance a s00mm lens don’t shoot hand held less then 1/250 of a second of faster.
Understanding Exposure
Understanding F-Stop
Putting it together Shutter Speed and F-Stop
Understanding F-Stop
let’s move on to the tricky F-Stop what does it really mean…
Here is a list of F-stops every one is 1 stop apart from the other. If you remember your first 2 f/stops you will know the rest since every other one doubles itself. f/1 – f/2 — f/1.4 – f/2.8
- f/1, f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22, f/32
You might remember this from the Understanding Exposure post I wrote:
A stop is defined as double or half the amount of light.
So if you were at f/5.6 and you wanted to let in twice as much light, you would open up one stop to f/4
- f/5.6 – f/4 – 1 stop – you doubled the amount of light (Opening Up)
- f/5.6 – f/2.8 – 2 tops – you now have 4 x’s the amount of light. (Opening Up)
So if you go the other way
- f/4 – f/5.6 – 1 stop – you are letting in one-half as much light. (Stopping Down)
- f/2.8 – f/5.6 – 2 stops – you are letting in one-fourth as much light. (Stopping Down)
Opening up means letting in more light
Stopping Down means letting in less light
Understanding Exposure
Understanding Shutter Speed
Understanding how F-Stop and Shutter Speed work together
Understanding Depth of Field – Coming Soon
Understanding Exposure
Last night was my first Photography Basics Class. It was a 2 hour class that passed me by in a blink of an eye. This class was absolutely amazing. I assumed since the class was called “Understanding the Basics” we would start off with what the dials mean on your camera etc. After everyone knew that we would move on to the exciting information, but I was wrong we dived right into Understanding Exposure!
But first we talked about the proper technique to hold your camera (which apparently I didn’t know)
How to hold your camera:
The position of your right hand should grip the right side of your camera – forefinger lightly above the shutter release. This part I was doing correct….
The position of your left hand should sit under the lens holding the weight of the lens. So you are cradling the lens in the palm of your hand. I was cradling the lens with the palm of my hand to the left of the lens.
Moving on with the class we talked about how the SLR (Single Lens Reflex) works, but I will have to write about that when I understand it a bit better myself. I thoroughly enjoyed talking about how the components to the camera work, how the shutter opens, how lights hits the sensor, what a sensor is. But I would have a hard time repeating what I learned so I will do a little homework on that subject first!
Understanding Exposure – The amount of light that hits the sensor or film.
Exposure is such a huge topic, but I learned a few things that were great in helping understand the mysteries to exposure. The key to controlling a photographic image is Understanding exposure.
Exposure is determined by two things
- The amount of light in the scene.
- The speed of your sensor ISO – (International Standard Organization)
Exposure is controlled by two things:
- Shutter Speed
- Aperture (f-stop)
Exposure in photography are measured in values called stops. Stop is a term you will hear again and again in photography only today did I actually understand its meaning (well almost understood it still pondering everything he said about it). A stop is defined as double or half the amount of light. You can describe a stop of light in two main ways, f-stops and shutter speeds
Understanding F-Stop
Understanding Shutter Speed
Understanding how F-Stop and Shutter Speed work together
Understanding Depth of Field – coming soon
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